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Is skincare waste of money? Does Skincare Really Work?

Is skincare waste of money? Does Skincare Really Work?

Hi everyone!

Athina here, and welcome to the THY SKIN blog!

Since I started my journey in creating skincare, I often get this look from friends and clients... "But Athina, does skincare even do something?"

There are multiple ways one could answer this question! Let's start from the basics: What is skincare supposed to do? What's its function and role?

Topics that we Will Discuss

1. What is a Cosmetic as per Law

7. Free resource to create a skincare routine

 

What is a Cosmetic as per Law

As per law, skincare products or cosmetics are supposed to improve the appearance of the skin, and clean and protect it. However, this description is pretty simplified. Across different countries, what is considered a cosmetic varies. For example, sunscreen is a cosmetic in EU law but is considered a drug in the USA and Canada!

These varying definitions show the blurry lines between cosmetics and drugs. Governments regularly redefine the definition to keep the market regulated and safe. 

 

Does our Skin Need a Skincare Routine or Is It a Marketing Trap?

The skin is our largest organ. It's our first protective barrier against environmental aggressors like pollution, UV rays, and bacteria. It regulates body temperature, enables the sense of touch, and even participates in the production of Vitamin D. Recent research sheds light on the link between gut health and skin; if your gut health is compromised, chances are your skin will reflect that! Given the above, maintaining skin health is not just about aesthetics; it's about overall health.

Meaning, as we grow older, our overall health can get compromised, and that reflects on our skin. It's important to take care of our skin early on and develop healthy habits that will have a huge impact overall.

For example, start wearing sunscreen from a young age. Just that one habit will get you far ahead compared to anything else! If you're skeptical about sunscreens, check out Huberman's podcast  for a detailed analysis of the safety of sunscreens and the pros and cons of mineral vs. chemical sunscreens. Everything you need to get an informed decision for yourself!

 

Do You Need a Skincare Routine?

All that said, do you need a skincare routine? When do you need to start with one? How complicated should a skincare routine be? How many steps should your skincare routine have?

That's quite a personal decision and there isn't really one size fits all! Nevertheless, here are some parameters to keep in mind:

1. Your Age

kids skincare sunscreen
  • Skincare for kids - Less than 12

I recently hear a lot of parents encouraging their kids to use skincare. Clients ask me what's a good skincare for kids? My personal opinion this is a marketing trap! Your child's skin should be great if left alone, unless there is a skin condition eg eczema where a professional opinion is necessary. But our children are perfect as they are.  The best you can do for them is get them into the habit of applying a mineral sunscreen.
  • Skincare for Teenagers

At that stage, it's great to start developing the habit to clean and protect your skin with compatible skincare product for your skin type. Usually 2-3 skincare routine steps should be enough: cleansing, treating, moisturising, protecting-SPF. Make sure you get a personalised routine if you suffering from hormonal acne or any other skin condition! But don't overcomplicate it! 

  • Young Adults 18-25

Research indicates that metabolism starts slowing down at the age of 20 while skin aging kicks off at around 25!  Meaning, based on your unique situation it's very possible that you could go by with a compatible to your skin type cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen....and you good to go until 25! No need for fillers, nor botox or extensive skincare unless you experience any adverse skin conditions. Enjoy the simplicity of that age, complexity will come and stay in the following year!

  • Adults 25+

Now if you fall in the age bracket of 25+ , it's time to start thinking of your skincare routine! We will go into more details of how simple or complicated it should be in a while.

2. Your skin type

If you deviating from normal to combined skin, you could be experiencing more issues, from occasional pimples to dry patches or redness if you on the dry and sensitive side. Tune into your skin behaviour and adjust your skincare routine accordingly.

3. Your environment

If you travel often, you are exposed to high humidity or highly dry environments or even hard water for prolonged period of time, you skin's microbiome may be challenges and in need of a bit more love! Don't ignore it. 

 

Do You Need a Simple or Elaborated Skincare Routine?

I know that the majority of media out there suggests more complicated skincare routines and sometimes up to 15 or more steps. Before sharing my opinion, there is an interesting study done where a simple and an advanced routine was compared.

Here is the conclusion:

"Hemoglobin heterogeneity was found to be significantly reduced only in the Simple Routine group. However, the Advanced Routine (AR) outperformed the Simple Routine when it comes to improving superficial hydration, deep hydration, skin roughness, mean pore area, melanin heterogeneity, and crow's feet wrinkle depth. A significant increase in skin brightness from baseline was only recorded when using the Advance Routine while both routines significantly improved the nasolabial wrinkles"

woman skincareWhen looking at the 2 experimental groups of women their description is as follows: Volunteers aged 25-55 years were randomly allocated to two different groups: one using the Advanced Routine (n = 29, mean age = 45, SD = 7) and another one using a Simple Routine (n = 20, mean age = 42, SD = 7)

Keep in mind the above study was funded by oriflame and the overall result was "Yes advance routine outperformed simple one" but I would like to draw to your attention to 4 key parts.

1. Simple Routine group has slightly younger audience (42 vs 45)
2. Simple Routine was applied only in the morning! Meaning before sleep the skin was not treated for impurities and overnight recuperation was at risk hence undermining the results of a simple routine.
3. Simple routine and advance routine improved  nasolabial wrinkles!
4. Simple Routine performed better than Advanced Routine on Hemoglobin heterogeneity.   Hemoglobin effectively carries oxygen to your skin and offers antioxidant activity plus supports skin barrier functions. There is a lot of investigation going on the importance of Hemoglobin for skin health.

The 4 above points are to illustrate that simple routines have benefits, especially if you are still before your thirties. Younger skin can support itself if you give it just enough and don't disturb its delicate balance! Of course as we grow older our skin function is deteriorating and yes a more complex routine would make a difference.

 

How to Choose the Right Skincare Products for You?

To choose right products for your skin, you need to consider:

1. What's your skin goal?

What is the one thing you would like to tackle? Approach skincare not as miracle therapy rather as long term game such as going to the gym for your skin.

2. What's your skin type?

Your skin type is not one for the rest of your life! It changes with the seasons, lifestyle and aging. Listen to your skin, see what it tries to communicate to you and adjust your habits. Something that worked for someone else isn't a guarantee that it will work for you! It all boils down to your unique skin, lifestyle and routines. 

3. Use Scientifically Proven Ingredients

Opt for scientifically proven ingredients that deliver  the results your skin needs! Don't just rely on company's claims, check independent research of those ingredients and use the right % of actives.

4. The formulation

Not all products are created equal! The formulation of a product makes the whole difference in whether an ingredient will make the impact on your skin or not. A simple example would be 2 products could be claiming to contain Niacinamide.

  • One at 3% and another one at 5%, which one would you choose? 
  • What if one contained 5% and the other one 10%? Which one would you choose now? 

Research shows that the best results for anti-aging and hyperpigmentation without any sensitisation are achieved at 5% not 3% nor 10%. There are 2 reason I would suggest someone to go to 10% or even 20%.

Number one, if they are already used 5% or 10% for 3 months hence topping up the percentage for continuous improvement. Number two, if they are looking to target serious hyperpigmentation. Nevertheless, I would strongly suggest instead of going to 20% Niacinamide you stick with 10% and get a formulation that's pair Arbutin or Kogic Acid. That way you are working on different paths of hyperpigmentation and targeting all aspects with different ingredients.

 

The Key to Skincare is Knowing Your Skin

As Steven Nwe, DO, a dermatologist with Northwestern Medicine says: “The key to skin resiliency is knowing your skin and treating it well.” source

I encourage you to start listening to your skin. Observe how it reacts to different stress levels, food, and skincare. More doesn't mean better; seek the right balance for you!

Do you still feel lost? Here are some resources I offer for free to help you:

1. Free skincare routine templates adjusted for UAE conditions.

If you already have a skincare routine but since you moved to UAE something just doesn't feel right! Maybe your skin became more dry? Maybe started having more pimples here and there? 

Sign up here and I will send you the templates which will point you some basic but important adjustments your need to make!

2. You have no idea where to start?  Free Skincare Quiz

Check out the questionnaire I have developed for you! Within 2 minutes:

  • it prioritises your skin concerns
  • creates a basic structure routine for you
  • suggests the type of ingredients you need to incorporate in your skincare routine

3. If you feel that you need more! You still have questions about:

  • what are the right skincare not only for your skin but for your values as well
  • if you want to understand how you can adjust your skincare without wasting your current products
  • if you still haven't found products that work for your skin
  • If you are looking for a partner in you skin journey 
A 45 min consultation is just for you!

 

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